Amazon Alexa / Echo Commands List


Amazon echo is a great device if you know how to use it, but unlike Siri, Google, or Cortana it’s not as intuitive to guess the commands. Here’s a list of known commands for the Echo. Make sure you’re using the app as well to take full advantage of the device. As always, preface every command with “Alexa”:

Music Commands

  • What’s playing?
  • Play [band].
  • Play [station] on Pandora.
  • play playlist
  • play [song] by [band].
  • next song.
  • Turn it up.
  • Softer.
  • Volume 4 [or any number between 1-10]
  • Mute.
  • Stop the music.
  • Pause.
  • Resume.
  • Next song.
  • Loop.
  • Set a sleep timer for 30 minutes.
  • Stop playing music in 30 minutes.
  • Cancel sleep timer.
  • Buy this song / album (while a music sample or music on a radio station is playing).
  • Add this song (while Prime Music is playing).
  • I like this song (when a song or track from Pandora / iHeartRadio / Prime Stations is playing).
  • Thumbs down (when a song or track from Pandora / iHeartRadio / Prime Stations is playing

General Commands

  • How is traffic? (route must be set up in app)
  • What is the weather today [in city (if other than home)]?
  • Who won the [sports team] game?
  • When do the [sports team] play next?
  • What was the score of [sports team] game?
  • How many [units] in a [unit] (e.g., tablespoons in a half cup)
  • What is [math problem] (e.g., square root of 50, 13×57, 12/18, etc.)
  • Add [item] to my shopping list.
  • Add [task] to my to-do list.
  • Set the alarm for [time].
  • What is the alarm set for?
  • Set a timer for # minutes.
  • How much time is left on the timer?
  • What time is it?
  • What time is it in [city/state/country]?
  • volume [down/up or #]
  • define [word].
  • how do you spell [word]?
  • how many calories are in [food item]?
  • what is the capital of [state]?
  • what’s going on today? (i.e., news brief)
  • listen to a pod cast.
  • Wikipedia [topic].
  • how do you say [word] in [language].
  • stop/off

What is an unlocked cellphone?

An unlocked cellphone simply means that the phone hasn’t been programmed to function only with (also known as being locked into) a single carrier. By not being restricted to any carrier, they can therefore work on whatever network you want to put them on. The most common reason people go with unlocked phones is so that they can be used while you travel overseas or on foreign / international networks without domestic roaming charges. These cellphones typically operate using SIM cards which can be changed in and out to work on the network you wish them to.

What is DDR3L memory?

DDR3L memory is the low voltage “next generation” of DDR3 RAM. DDR3L typically operates at 1.35v & 1.25v and is supported by the newer generations of Intel processors (Sandy Bridge, Ivy Bridge, etc) and AMD APUs (FX).

Theoretically this memory can function faster than higher voltage memory because lower voltages can change states more quickly. This memory also uses less power than standard DDR3 memory.

Asus QVL Memory List

Asus’s Qualified Vendor List (Memory) Download the PDF :

DDR3 1333 Qualified Vendors List (QVL)

AMD AE32G1339U1-U 2GB SS AMD 23EY4587MB3H11503M 9-9-9-24 1.5V
AMD AE34G1339U2-U 4GB DS AMD 23EY4587MB3H11503M 9-9-9-24 1.5V
Silicon Power SP002GBLTU133V02 2GB SS S-POWER 20YT3NG-1202
Silicon Power SP004GBLTU133V02 4GB DS S-POWER 20YT3NG-1201
ASint SLZ302G08-EDJ1C 2GB SS Asint SLZ302G08-DJ1C
ASint SLA302G08-EDJ1C 4GB DS Asint SLA302G08-DJ1C
ASint SLB304G08-EDJ1B 8GB DS Asint SLB304G08-DJ1B

DDR3 1600 Qualified Vendors List (QVL)

KINGSTON KHX1600C9D3K4/16GX(XMP) 16GB ( 4GB x4 ) DS – 1.65V
AMD AE32G1609U1-U 2GB SS – 23EY4587MB6H11503M 9-9-9-24 1.5V
AMD AE34G1609U2-U 4GB DS AMD 23EY4587MB6H11503M 9-9-9-24 1.5V
CORSAIR CMZ8GX3M1A1600C10(XMP) 8GB DS 10-10-10-27 1.50V
CORSAIR CMZ32GX3M4X1600C10(XMP) 32GB(8GBx4) DS 10-10-10-27 1.50V
PATRIOT PGD316G1600ELK(XMP) 32GB(8GBx4) DS 9-9-9-24 1.65V
Silicon Power SP004GBLTU160V02(XMP) 4GB DS S-POWER 20YT5NG-1201
ASint SLZ302G08-EGN1C 2GB SS Asint SLZ302G08-GN1C
ASint SLA302G08-EGN1C 4GB DS Asint SLA302G08-GN1C
ASint SLB304G08-EGN1B 8GB DS Asint SLB304G08-GN1B
Apacer 78.B1GE3.9L10C 4GB DS Apacer KZZC AM5D5908DEQSCK
Elixir M2X8G64CB8HB5N-DG(XMP) 8GB DS Elixir 1213 N2CB4G8BOBN-DG
ADATA AD3U1600C4G11-B 4GB DS – N/A
TEAM TED34G1600HC11BK 4GB DS 11-11-11-28 –
TEAM TLD34G1600HC9BK(XMP) 4GB DS 9-9-24 1.5V

DDR3 1866 Qualified Vendors List (QVL)

KINGSTON KHX1866C9D3K4/16GX(XMP) 16GB ( 4GB x4 ) DS – 1.65V

DDR3 2133 Qualified Vendors List (QVL)

CORSAIR CMT8GX3M2B2133C9(XMP) 8GB ( 4GB x 2) DS 9-11-9-27 1.50V
KINGSTON KHX2133C11D3K4/16GX(XMP) 16GB ( 4GB x4 ) DS – 1.65V
KINGSTON KHX2133C11D3T1K2/16GX(XMP) 16GB(8GB x 2) DS – 1.6V
KINGSTON KHX21C11T1BK2/16X(XMP) 16GB(8GBx2) DS – 1.6V
Team TXD34096M2133HC9N-L 4GB DS SEC 128 HCH9 K4B2G0846D 9-11-11-28 1.65V
Team TXD34096M2133HC11-L 4GB SS – 1.5V
ADATA AX3U2133XC4G10-2X(XMP) 4GB DS 10-11-11-30 1.65V
ADATA AX3U2133XW8G10-2X(XMP) 8GB DS 10-11-11-30 1.65V

DDR3 2600 Qualified Vendors List (QVL)

Silicon Power SP002GBLTU133V02 2GB SS S-POWER 20YT3NG-1202
Silicon Power SP004GBLTU133V02 4GB DS S-POWER 20YT3NG-1201

4 DIMM Slots
• 1 DIMM: Supports one module inserted in any slot as Single-channel memory configuration
• 2 DIMM: Supports one pair of modules inserted into eithor the blue slots or the black slots as one pair of Dual-channel memory configuration
• 4 DIMM: Supports 4 modules inserted into both the blue and black slots as two pairs of Dual-channel memory configuration
-When installing total memory of 4GB capacity or more, Windows 32-bit operation system may only recognize less than 3GB. Hence, a total installed memory of less than 3GB is recommended.
-It is recommended to install the memory modules from the slots for better overclocking capability.
-The default DIMM frequency depends on its Serial Presence Detect (SPD), which is the standard way of accessing information from a memory module. Under the default state, some memory modules for
overclocking may operate at a lower frequency than the vendor-marked value.

Online fraud – who loses?

Through successful marketing tactics and a general lack of proper knowledge fully embedded within our culture, the larger credit card companies have tackled any consumer concerns when it comes to liability in situations of fraud and identity theft.  Virtually every new credit card application, offer, or advertisement boasts the authorizing provider’s card security and fraud-proof guarantees.  These guarantees have instilled a necessary confidence within consumers that both enables eCommerce trading and has made the credit card the chosen method in such transactions.

   And while these guarantees may have enabled an entire internet sales industry – one in which your business may actively participate in – you will be surprised to learn that the guarantor is not who you may think.  The guarantor is actually you, the merchant. While most consumers and sellers alike are led to believe that their interests are being protected directly by the card issuing Visa/MasterCard, Discover, or American Express companies, it is in fact these companies’ willingness to exercise their control over a merchant’s depositing account that funds this security.  You will quickly learn that when a situation presented may hint or eventually lead towards fraud (by almost any circumstance,) a hold will quickly be placed in the amount of the transaction in question on the merchant’s depositing account and the burden of proof will then be placed upon them to prove that the cardholder: a) placed the charge knowingly, b) gave authorization to the charge, c) physically received the goods in the conditions presented and made aware to them at the time of purchase, and d) provided a confirmation that the charge was to be applied (ie- signature, etc.)  In instances that seem all too common, proving these points may not even be enough.  Being in the highest risk category (card not present merchants,) online resellers oftentimes receive chargebacks that seem to be un-winnable regardless of the case presented.  With the threat of your accounts being frozen or your merchant processing capabilities closed, it is difficult to argue with whatever ruling is handed down to you.  With the anti-merchant/pro-consumer rules in place, abuses to the system have become a very serious threat.

   Without going too far overboard, one could argue that any losses encountered due to fraudulent activity are felt solely by the merchant.  A consumer who had a charge placed on their account and was later refunded/credited sees no net effect and thus shows little involvement outside of maybe an initial scare or uncertainty.  The fraudster (who could in fact turn out to be the original consumer) obtains whatever item/service they were able to get a hold of at little or no cost or consequence.  The merchant processor may come out the clear-cut winner, however, as they charge the merchant a processing fee and percentage for the original transaction (which is never refunded), follow that up with a substantial chargeback fee (ranging from $10-$50 and again which will never be refunded), and then again charge the merchant the same processing and percentage fees for issuing the credit (again, money that is never returned.)  It would be unfair to suggest that merchant processors actively pursue chargebacks, but there is no denying that the seem to reap benefits from the rules and practices of today.

   It should be said that not every chargeback leads to disaster for the merchant.  While there is never a way around the nonrefundable fee Chargeback Fees, if the actual transaction was valid and you have completed it with the proper authorization procedures, you should have a good case in any chargeback arbitration.  This does not guarantee victory, but it does greatly improve your chances of a favorable settlement.  Al always, it is important to remember to retain as much evidence as possible and to secure these records for evidence in case the need arises.

   While all of the rules seem unfair and set to discourage business, it is quite simply the only feasible way of going about it.  The industry average for chargebacks is estimated to be just above .5% of the total number of transactions with the most predominant reason for a chargebacks being a buyer not recognizing the name of the company they had purchased from on their statement.  This type of chargeback can usually be corrected if in fact the customer ‘recalls’ the transaction after learning more about it.  Unfortunately, though, this information provides little comfort when the threat of a chargeback is received and the products/services have already been delivered.  This makes it all the more important to install systems necessary for detection and to educate yourself to see through a fraudster and to catch them before they succeed in defrauding your company.

   Before, companies were able to take a ‘Circle-of-Life’ approach to distributing the losses encountered due to fraud; the merchant loss leading to increased prices and indirectly being paid for by future consumers.  With eCommerce and customer loyalty not being quite as resolute anymore, a highly sophisticated online shopping populous now has the means and desire to seek out the lowest prices and is more than willing to jump to another supplier at any time.  A key to driving your prices down is to minimize the many external factors and overhead costs that are not keyed directly in to the buy/sell transaction.  Fraud may very well be the largest of those external factors and can be devastatingly unpredictable.

eBay First

An excerpt from an eBay seller book…


I started in the liquidation business in 1990. I was a component level test technician for DSC Communications in Plano, TX. I worked for low hourly wages, had just gotten married and had a new baby girl. Trying to make ends meet on my paycheck was really almost impossible. The future at DSC was looking very depressing. Getting a job in a large corporation where I could start to climb that ladder was always a goal. Once I got into a large corporation, I couldn’t take the depths I saw people sink to simply to get promoted. I quickly began looking at ways to make it on my own with very little money set aside for investing. I had a background in computers and electronics. My first job in a technical field was in 1980 working CP/M based small business computers. I wanted to start my own business selling something that I was interested in. But, I needed cash to start. While working 60 to 80 hours a week at DSC, I started painting for some extra money. I rounded up everything my new wife and I had that was not absolutely necessary and sold it. Within a couple of months I had $2600 saved to start my business. I picked up the Dallas Morning News Sunday Edition and looked at the local auction listings. I found what looked like a good general merchandise auction with some cars and some computer equipment. I went and purchased a Honda Civic, a Houston Instruments Plotter and a stack of 8088 computers. I went and placed ads in the local classifieds for the items I had purchased and within 3 weeks had converted my $2600 into $7500. For the next few years I just bought and sold things at auction. Eventually, being part owner in Fischer-Holland Auctions based in Dallas but holding auctions in Houston. We did live computer auctions. This was a 3-way partnership and didn’t workout. I went back out on my own and had now grown to a point where I was purchasing excess direct from manufacturers, distributors and retailers and then consigning the inventory back to lice auction companies in Houston and Dallas mainly but occasionally to auctions in California and Colorado as well. I once again took on partners, this time family. We continued doing liquidation but were purchasing large loads of inventory at that time and opened a retail computer location called Fischer MICRO in Plano, TX to move this inventory. We hit about $5 Million in retail sales for the 1995 fiscal year. Margins were just not what I was happy with. We were working huge numbers of hours with 25 employees and an overhead that was just mentally draining to think about how much we had to sell to pay every month. My new family partners elected to get out of the liquidation computer market and start selling clone computers. That was the biggest mistake we ever made. Sales plummeted. We went from $675,000 gross in December 1995 to around $200,000 a month by the middle of 1996. Although, I wanted to get back in the liquidation market, I committed to give this plan of attack through the end of 1997. I did this and at the beginning of 1998 pulled out of the partnership as an active participant and headed back into the liquidation business. By this time, Ebay was around and gaining popularity. They had a little over 150,000 items up for bid at any given time then. I took only $5,000 out of Fischer MICRO to start back into the liquidation business. I started going back to local live computer auctions. With my $5,000 in purchases, I made over $13,000 in profit on Ebay my first month. Ebay had me hooked. I could see instantly that this Ebay was the ticket to financial freedom and being able to have your own business with low overhead and the potential of doing a high volume. Now, almost 4 years later, I am more convinced than ever. My Ebay sales have hit as high as $95,000 in one month and business is better than ever.

I have made a lot of mistakes over the last 4 years. But, I have also learned a lot of lessons. That’s why this book can be so valuable to someone starting a business on Ebay. This can give you a blast past those mistakes by taking advantage of someone else’s experience. I could quickly see that automation was the key to Ebay. With all sales being done online, and transactions handled largely through email, it is very clear that if you can automate huge portions of your tasks, and you have enough product, and the site you’re selling on has enough traffic, there is just almost no limit to the sales volume you can achieve. Currently, Ebay has around 4,500,000 items listed at any given time. There is roughly $17,000,000 dollars of successfully sold auctions closing everyday just on Ebay. That’s enough for almost 6,000 people to be selling $90,000 a month in sales. To some that number sounds astronomical, to some that number sounds, like a drop in sales. But, what I can tell you is how to do that much in sales out of your house, with no labor commitments, no payroll taxes, no OSHA requirements, none of the pain in the neck things that are normally associated with a company doing that much in sales. Your net on those sales will be totally dependant on how good your sources are. You should be able to easily find products that will allow you to net 20%. That means at $90,000 a month gross you’re net is $18,000 per month, around $200,000 a year. The potential is really up to you. The more time and effort you put in, the better the results. If you just want to make $30,000 a year and take it easy, you can almost do that as a hobby.

Some of the key issues paving the way for volume success have just come into place. There will be some literal millionaires coming out of the Ebay seller community. As mentioned, the real key is automation of the processes required to sell online. Once the processes are automated, even if you’re only making $5 per item you sell, as long as you can do that 100 times a day, you’re making a bundle. Of course, if you can make $50 per item you sell, and do that 100 times a day you’re rich. All of this takes having money to invest, having products available to buy and having that automated system.

I hope you can see that the exciting thing here is that this is real. It is possible and people are doing it. If you want to be your own boss, have more time for your family, be more in control of how much you make, decide when and how much you work, then this really is a golden opportunity. This is not a get rich quick scheme and you won’t get something for nothing. But, it’s a real plan that it easy to follow and it works.

Intel’s RealSense Technology

RealSense technology is the next logical evolution for the PC, changing the way people interact with their computers. So, what does RealSense offer? Cutting edge technology like gesture control, depth-sensing capabilities and 3D motion capture. Then there’s the RealSense camera, True Key facial authentication (so accurate it can tell twins apart!), and advanced voice recognition.

Wireless Network Guide: Go Wireless

Connecting to a wireless network is easy! With a few simple steps, you can get your PC to connect and surf the web. Before you go and connect to a wireless router, you need to identify a few things first. If you have a laptop, you must have a WLAN enabled. Usually for new models, it is simply done by pressing the function key and then holding the Wi-Fi key. There should be an indicator that lights up on your laptop to indicate that your laptop is ready to connect to a wireless router. To get the exact steps, you may want to consult the laptop’s user manual. If you have a desktop PC, then you need to find out if it has a WLAN card installed. If not, you need to purchase and install one. If you do not want to fiddle with installing a WLAN card you can always purchase a WLAN USB adaptor. This device resembles a USB thumb drive. All you have to do is to plug it in, install the driver, and you’re all set.

If you have determined that the WLAN connection is enabled on your machine, the next step is to determine the details of the wireless network you want to connect to. One of the details that you need to know is the SSID or the Service Set Identifier, basically this is the name of the Wi-Fi router you want to connect to. The next thing you need to know is the WEP key or the Wireless Encryption Protocol, simply the password to the Wi-Fi router. If you have the router at home and you don’t have any password or name for the wireless network, it is best to setup one to protect yourself from others in your area that will try to connect. The last thing that you want is someone connecting to your wireless network and gaining access to your files and internet connection. To setup SSID and WEP keys, you should refer to your router’s user manual.

Now that you have the information on the name and password for the wireless router, all you need to do now is to connect to the network. Easily enough, you can do this by clicking on the Wi-Fi icon on the notifications area on the task bar. A small window will appear wherein you can select the name of the wireless router and then click connect. You will then be prompted to input the password for the wireless network. Enter the correct password, then hit OK to finish connecting.

There are a few things you need to remember while connecting over a wireless network. Make sure that you don’t give out your IP address because this can lead hackers to infiltrate your PC. Also be sure to turn off the photo, video and file sharing option when connecting over a public wireless network like in a coffee shop. Your firewall and your anti-virus software should also be turned on if you want to connect to a public Wi-Fi connection for your safety.